Yeast Rehydration
1 pkg (5g) Lalvin K1-V1116
1/4 tsp yeast nutrient
1/4 tsp yeast energizer
50 ml water 106F
Must prep
1/2 gal. Stop & Shop 100% Apple Cider (no sugar added)
1 c light brown sugar (packed)
3 tsp McCormick Pumpkin Pie spice
Add adjuncts
1/4 tsp yeast energizer
3/4 tsp yeast nutrient
Added 1/2 gal. apple juice
Aerated 1 hr.
Measurements
SG Juice only: 1.048
Must temp 92.0F
OG: 1.068
Temp. Adjusted OG: 1.071
Potential ABV: 9.3%
SG (10/7/18): 0.996
ABV: 9.8%
Notes:
Tasting Notes:
Saturday, September 22, 2018
Sunday, September 9, 2018
Coffee Mead
Yeast Rehydration
1/2 pkg Montrachet yeast
1/4 tsp yeast energizer
1/4 c water 103F
Must prep
1 c hot water
1/2 tsp Bentonite
1 c hot water
1.25 lbs honey (22.1 oz) almost 2 c
Add adjuncts
1 tsp liquid tannins
1/4 tsp yeast energizer
1 tsp yeast nutrient
Added 6 c cold brew coffee
Added 12 c water
Measurements
Yeast temp 79.1F
Must temp 80.6F
OG: 1.054
Potential ABV: 7.1%
pH: 6.44, corrected to 4.25 with 3 tsp acid blend
Aerated must for 1 hour
While aerate, excessive foam was created and came out through top. Removed 1-1/2 c of must and started aerating again, but more foam was created, so after about20 minutes of aeration, I stopped, added back in the must that was removed and put a blowoff tube in for fermentation
Notes:
September __, 2018: Added one vanilla bean. Split open bean to expose seeds, etc.
Tasting Notes
1/2 pkg Montrachet yeast
1/4 tsp yeast energizer
1/4 c water 103F
Must prep
1 c hot water
1/2 tsp Bentonite
1 c hot water
1.25 lbs honey (22.1 oz) almost 2 c
Add adjuncts
1 tsp liquid tannins
1/4 tsp yeast energizer
1 tsp yeast nutrient
Added 6 c cold brew coffee
Added 12 c water
Measurements
Yeast temp 79.1F
Must temp 80.6F
OG: 1.054
Potential ABV: 7.1%
pH: 6.44, corrected to 4.25 with 3 tsp acid blend
Aerated must for 1 hour
While aerate, excessive foam was created and came out through top. Removed 1-1/2 c of must and started aerating again, but more foam was created, so after about20 minutes of aeration, I stopped, added back in the must that was removed and put a blowoff tube in for fermentation
Notes:
September __, 2018: Added one vanilla bean. Split open bean to expose seeds, etc.
Tasting Notes
Thursday, September 6, 2018
Black Cherry Plum Melomel
Rehydrated 2g Lalvin EC-1118 in 2 oz. (4 tbsp) spring water at 106F. Added 1/4 tsp yeast energizer and let stand 15 min.
To 1c Black Cherry Plum juice, 1/4 tsp bentonite was added
2.7 oz of honey was added to the must
Must temp: 95.6F / Yeast starter temp: 89.5F
Added 1/2c of must to yeast to acclimate. Waited 5 minutes.
Must:: 95.9F/Yeast: 93.2F
Added 1/2c must to yeast. Waited 5 minutes
Must: 95.8F/Yeast: 92.6F
Added 1/2c must to yeast. Waited 5 minutes
Added yeast to must and added 1/4 tsp liquid tannins.
Aerated for 1 hour
pH: 3.76
SG: 1.060 for 8% potential ABV
On September 12, gravity had gone to 0.998 so I racked it over to a 1 gal container and added potassium metabisulfite and potassium sorbate. Will backsweeten with honey and more juice.
Notes:
To 1c Black Cherry Plum juice, 1/4 tsp bentonite was added
2.7 oz of honey was added to the must
Must temp: 95.6F / Yeast starter temp: 89.5F
Added 1/2c of must to yeast to acclimate. Waited 5 minutes.
Must:: 95.9F/Yeast: 93.2F
Added 1/2c must to yeast. Waited 5 minutes
Must: 95.8F/Yeast: 92.6F
Added 1/2c must to yeast. Waited 5 minutes
Added yeast to must and added 1/4 tsp liquid tannins.
Aerated for 1 hour
pH: 3.76
SG: 1.060 for 8% potential ABV
On September 12, gravity had gone to 0.998 so I racked it over to a 1 gal container and added potassium metabisulfite and potassium sorbate. Will backsweeten with honey and more juice.
Notes:
Sunday, October 15, 2017
Should It Be This Hard to Make a Hydromel
Hydromel Recipe:
Today I made a hydromel using just 1-1/2 lbs of honey, but try as I may, it still came out at a potential ABV of 10%. It may be the yeast won't chew it all up, but I'm not so hopeful.
As I always do, I started off boiling a pot of water to put the honey container into. While that was underway, I added 4 c of spring water to the kettle and heated it for 1-1/2 minutes, which got the temp to 121F. When rehydrating yeast, you want the GoFerm water as hot as possible and then have it cool to the temp you need to rehydrate your yeast. Unfortunately, by the time I figured out how my Fermax I was going to need, the water had cooled to 112F. Not bad, just not as hot as I was hoping for.
To calculate how much yeast nutrient you'll need, you take how much yeast you're using (4 g), multiply by by 1.25 (5g), then multiply that answer by 20 to determine how much yeast you need, or 100 ml. I took the hot kettle water, poured 100 ml into a bowl, and added the 5 g of Fermax.
In the meantime, I completed making the must. I added a cup of hot water from the kettle to the fermenter, and then added a 1/2 tsp Bentonite. The fermenter I'm using this time is actually one of the 1 gal. apple juice bottles from the cyzer I made because it has a wider mouth on it. But it also has a pronounced hump in the bottom so the Bentonite hit that and the water didn't reach over it, plus it had grooves in it and the clay became a stick mess in there. I was able to pry it out using my bottling wand, but almost gunked that up with the clay. In the end, most of the clay was incorporated into the water.
I next added more hot water from the kettle and then added the honey, which was actually 25 oz, instead of 24 oz. Not a big deal. I added all the hot water, added reserved spring water, then put in 1 tsp of wine tannin and aerated the hell out of it with my whip. However, the must temperature was 91F so I put it into the freezer to bring the temperature down.
I took a gravity reading beforehand though and got 1.074, or about 10% ABV, or a Brix reading of 18. I need the Brix reading to determine how much nutrient I need for the step nutrient additions. You take the Brix, multiple by 10 and then multiple by a factor based on how much nitrogen it needs. I couldn't find the info for US-05, so I chose a middle of the road number of 0.9. You then divide the answer by 100 (for ppm) and that is the number of grams of nutrient needed for the SNA.
In my case that meant (18 x 10) = 180 x 0.9 = 162 / 100 = 1.62 grams, which is a very teensy amount. I'll need to recheck these calculations.
Interestingly, I found out that 1 tsp of US-05 equals 3.7 g, not the 2 g I had been assuming; but also 1 tsp. of Fermax equals 5.1 g. Without my new gram scale, I'd never have known all this.
I also took a pH reading of the must and was surprised to see it at 5.22. I've been reading lately not to worry about pH so much in primary and simply adjust for it at the end, if at all, but I've also read that high pH's like this can affect the fermentation so I added 1 tsp of acid blend and that corrected it to 3.50, which is good.
To rehydrate the yeast, US-05 calls for adding the yeast to water that's between 77F-84F (not over 100F like most other yeasts I've used). After letting it sit for 15-30 minutes, you then gently stir it for 30 minutes before pitching it into the must.
I did all this, then pitched the yeast into the must and instead of adding an airlock, I'm going to try an open ferment during primary. Ryan Carlson on a GotMEad Live podcast recommends this as it helps get oxygen into the must and improves the quality of the ferment. I covered the opening with a do-rag to keep out bugs so we'll see how this goes.
One other thing is Safale says US-05 really likes temps between 64F-82F to ferment so keep it in that range. I raised the fermentation chamber temp to 19C (66F). It's the low end of the temp, and I'll keep an eye on it to see if it needs to be raised, but I'm still operating on the cooler is better for fermentation.
- 1 gal. spring water
- 1-1/2 lbs honey (actually, 25 oz)
- 5 g Fermax yeast nutrient
- 4 g Safale US-05 yeast
- 1/2 tsp Bentonite
- 1 tsp wine tannins
- 1 tsp acid blend
Today I made a hydromel using just 1-1/2 lbs of honey, but try as I may, it still came out at a potential ABV of 10%. It may be the yeast won't chew it all up, but I'm not so hopeful.
As I always do, I started off boiling a pot of water to put the honey container into. While that was underway, I added 4 c of spring water to the kettle and heated it for 1-1/2 minutes, which got the temp to 121F. When rehydrating yeast, you want the GoFerm water as hot as possible and then have it cool to the temp you need to rehydrate your yeast. Unfortunately, by the time I figured out how my Fermax I was going to need, the water had cooled to 112F. Not bad, just not as hot as I was hoping for.
To calculate how much yeast nutrient you'll need, you take how much yeast you're using (4 g), multiply by by 1.25 (5g), then multiply that answer by 20 to determine how much yeast you need, or 100 ml. I took the hot kettle water, poured 100 ml into a bowl, and added the 5 g of Fermax.
In the meantime, I completed making the must. I added a cup of hot water from the kettle to the fermenter, and then added a 1/2 tsp Bentonite. The fermenter I'm using this time is actually one of the 1 gal. apple juice bottles from the cyzer I made because it has a wider mouth on it. But it also has a pronounced hump in the bottom so the Bentonite hit that and the water didn't reach over it, plus it had grooves in it and the clay became a stick mess in there. I was able to pry it out using my bottling wand, but almost gunked that up with the clay. In the end, most of the clay was incorporated into the water.
I next added more hot water from the kettle and then added the honey, which was actually 25 oz, instead of 24 oz. Not a big deal. I added all the hot water, added reserved spring water, then put in 1 tsp of wine tannin and aerated the hell out of it with my whip. However, the must temperature was 91F so I put it into the freezer to bring the temperature down.
I took a gravity reading beforehand though and got 1.074, or about 10% ABV, or a Brix reading of 18. I need the Brix reading to determine how much nutrient I need for the step nutrient additions. You take the Brix, multiple by 10 and then multiple by a factor based on how much nitrogen it needs. I couldn't find the info for US-05, so I chose a middle of the road number of 0.9. You then divide the answer by 100 (for ppm) and that is the number of grams of nutrient needed for the SNA.
In my case that meant (18 x 10) = 180 x 0.9 = 162 / 100 = 1.62 grams, which is a very teensy amount. I'll need to recheck these calculations.
Interestingly, I found out that 1 tsp of US-05 equals 3.7 g, not the 2 g I had been assuming; but also 1 tsp. of Fermax equals 5.1 g. Without my new gram scale, I'd never have known all this.
I also took a pH reading of the must and was surprised to see it at 5.22. I've been reading lately not to worry about pH so much in primary and simply adjust for it at the end, if at all, but I've also read that high pH's like this can affect the fermentation so I added 1 tsp of acid blend and that corrected it to 3.50, which is good.
To rehydrate the yeast, US-05 calls for adding the yeast to water that's between 77F-84F (not over 100F like most other yeasts I've used). After letting it sit for 15-30 minutes, you then gently stir it for 30 minutes before pitching it into the must.
I did all this, then pitched the yeast into the must and instead of adding an airlock, I'm going to try an open ferment during primary. Ryan Carlson on a GotMEad Live podcast recommends this as it helps get oxygen into the must and improves the quality of the ferment. I covered the opening with a do-rag to keep out bugs so we'll see how this goes.
One other thing is Safale says US-05 really likes temps between 64F-82F to ferment so keep it in that range. I raised the fermentation chamber temp to 19C (66F). It's the low end of the temp, and I'll keep an eye on it to see if it needs to be raised, but I'm still operating on the cooler is better for fermentation.
Sunday, October 8, 2017
Mango Habanero Mead
This mead marks my first attempt at being super "professional" with my mead making. I'm going to try to use a many best practices as possible for this batch..
What that entailed was first rehydrating the yeast using a nutrient. Previously I either just rehydrated the yeast in water or pitched it dry into the must. This time around I heated up 4 c of water in my electric kettle for one minute which allowed it to attain temperature of about 113F. Then using calculations which said to use 1.25x of Fermax the grams of yeast you're using, mix the nutrient in 20x the amount of water heated to 107F.
Now the rehydrating process is actually for using Fermaid-O or -K (the Fermaid-O calculation is slight different), but I've read that Fermax can reliably be substituted for Fermaid-K, so I went with that.
Since I'm using 2g (1 tsp) of D47 yeast, that meant I needed to use 2.5g (1-1/4 tsp) of Fermax in 50 ml of water. When the temp of the Fermat-Infused water drops to 104F, pitch the yeast into it and let it stand for 15-20 min. The Lallemand yeast website says the entire rehydration process should last no more than 45 min.
With the yeast rehydrating, 1 added 1 c of kettle water to the fermenter and added 1/2 tsp of Bentonite. I then shook vigorously to mix.
The honey had previously been placed in a saucepan with boiling water to liquefy and I now measured out 1-1/2 lbs of honey. I might have been justified in using only 1 lb because the mango juice I'm using also has sugar.
I took a hydrometer reading of just the juice and it read 1.050, which is where I was shooting for, and I knew I would be adding water as well, but I couldn't quite figure out how much honey would be needed. It was all a guessing game and as we'll see, I was a bit off.
I added the remainder of the hot water and shook vigorously to incorporate the honey. I then emptied two 33.8 oz. containers of mango nectar (from concentrate) into the fermenter. I also add 1 tsp of wine tannin. With the fermenter approaching full, I took some readings: the original gravity was 1.080, a little above what I was shooting for as it gives me a potential ABV of 10.5%. the pH was 3.82, which seemed okay and the must temp was 89F.
I checked the yeast slurry temp, which had been sitting for about 30+ minutes and it was 87F. That's good because you want the yeast and must to be within 10F of each other, but you also want to pitch the yeast when the must is between 75-80F. I hope it doesn't effect the yeast, but I pitched it nonetheless.
Last, I aerated the must with my whip and realized I really should have done it prior to pitching the yeast, but as I'll be aerating for the first 3 days perhaps it's not a big deal.
I'll also be adding nutrients in a staggered fashion over the next few days, but since it will amount to about 1/8 tsp each addition, who knows whether it will amount to anything significant. I'll also be degassing the mead until it hits the 1/3 sugar break (1.026), which should be within the first few days.
And airlock was added to the fermenter and it was placed in the fermentation freezer.
UPDATE (10/9/17): Little to no airlock activity for most of the day. Perhaps if I had more patience it would have been okay, as there was one bubble popping every minute, but I decided to pitch another teaspoon of yeast.
I rehydrated it in the typical manner (no nutrients, just water) and acclimated it to the lower must temp before pitching. A few hours later I went to check on it and it was clear there was significant activity: there was a lot of bubbly crud on top and some relatively clear must below. It looked like it was going to bubble up through the airlock, so I added a blowoff tube to it: my siphon hose into a pitcher of StarSan.
Initially I had it sitting on top of the freezer in a Wal-Mart bag to keep the light out, but then remembering D47 yeast doesn't like warm ferments (over 70F) I moved it and the blowoff tube into the freezer. Using the Thermowell, it seems like the must temp was around 23C, which is north of 70F, so it looks like it was a good move. We'll see how it has progressed tomorrow when I make the second nutrient addition.
What that entailed was first rehydrating the yeast using a nutrient. Previously I either just rehydrated the yeast in water or pitched it dry into the must. This time around I heated up 4 c of water in my electric kettle for one minute which allowed it to attain temperature of about 113F. Then using calculations which said to use 1.25x of Fermax the grams of yeast you're using, mix the nutrient in 20x the amount of water heated to 107F.
Now the rehydrating process is actually for using Fermaid-O or -K (the Fermaid-O calculation is slight different), but I've read that Fermax can reliably be substituted for Fermaid-K, so I went with that.
Since I'm using 2g (1 tsp) of D47 yeast, that meant I needed to use 2.5g (1-1/4 tsp) of Fermax in 50 ml of water. When the temp of the Fermat-Infused water drops to 104F, pitch the yeast into it and let it stand for 15-20 min. The Lallemand yeast website says the entire rehydration process should last no more than 45 min.
With the yeast rehydrating, 1 added 1 c of kettle water to the fermenter and added 1/2 tsp of Bentonite. I then shook vigorously to mix.
The honey had previously been placed in a saucepan with boiling water to liquefy and I now measured out 1-1/2 lbs of honey. I might have been justified in using only 1 lb because the mango juice I'm using also has sugar.
I took a hydrometer reading of just the juice and it read 1.050, which is where I was shooting for, and I knew I would be adding water as well, but I couldn't quite figure out how much honey would be needed. It was all a guessing game and as we'll see, I was a bit off.
I added the remainder of the hot water and shook vigorously to incorporate the honey. I then emptied two 33.8 oz. containers of mango nectar (from concentrate) into the fermenter. I also add 1 tsp of wine tannin. With the fermenter approaching full, I took some readings: the original gravity was 1.080, a little above what I was shooting for as it gives me a potential ABV of 10.5%. the pH was 3.82, which seemed okay and the must temp was 89F.
I checked the yeast slurry temp, which had been sitting for about 30+ minutes and it was 87F. That's good because you want the yeast and must to be within 10F of each other, but you also want to pitch the yeast when the must is between 75-80F. I hope it doesn't effect the yeast, but I pitched it nonetheless.
Last, I aerated the must with my whip and realized I really should have done it prior to pitching the yeast, but as I'll be aerating for the first 3 days perhaps it's not a big deal.
I'll also be adding nutrients in a staggered fashion over the next few days, but since it will amount to about 1/8 tsp each addition, who knows whether it will amount to anything significant. I'll also be degassing the mead until it hits the 1/3 sugar break (1.026), which should be within the first few days.
And airlock was added to the fermenter and it was placed in the fermentation freezer.
UPDATE (10/9/17): Little to no airlock activity for most of the day. Perhaps if I had more patience it would have been okay, as there was one bubble popping every minute, but I decided to pitch another teaspoon of yeast.
I rehydrated it in the typical manner (no nutrients, just water) and acclimated it to the lower must temp before pitching. A few hours later I went to check on it and it was clear there was significant activity: there was a lot of bubbly crud on top and some relatively clear must below. It looked like it was going to bubble up through the airlock, so I added a blowoff tube to it: my siphon hose into a pitcher of StarSan.
Initially I had it sitting on top of the freezer in a Wal-Mart bag to keep the light out, but then remembering D47 yeast doesn't like warm ferments (over 70F) I moved it and the blowoff tube into the freezer. Using the Thermowell, it seems like the must temp was around 23C, which is north of 70F, so it looks like it was a good move. We'll see how it has progressed tomorrow when I make the second nutrient addition.
Wednesday, October 4, 2017
A New Cyzer
This past weekend I pitched a new cyzer. The last one was an abject failure as it developed a pellicle and then turned horrible in taste. But it had been made with real apples that I had neglected to wash and sanitize properly so I guess it's not surprising it got infected.
This time I went with an all-juice recipe. Since the juice already has preservatives in it, it should inhibit any wild yeast from taking hold.
I made the cyzer just as I would a regular mead, but I used my new juice-only kettle to heat up the nice. It's a different design than the other (the other is better), but it did the job. I added a cup of heated juice to the fermenter along with a 1/2 tsp of Bentonite and shook vigorously. Then I added some more juice and added 1 lb. of the liquefied honey and mixed it well.
The rest was as it normally is, filling up the fermenter with the rest of the reserved juice and adding the adjuncts to it. Gravity readings, temperature readings, and pH were all taken. An airlock was added and then it was placed in the new fermentation chamber.
A converted upright freezer, the fermentation chamber has been laid on its back (the compressor was rotated to remain upright) and a new digital thermostat was added to regulate the temperature. It fluctuates between 19.5C (67.1F) and around 17C (62.6F). I'd like to dial it in a little more to narrow the range, but once the compressor kicks on it drops the temp a certain amount, and if I lowered the upper level it would dip down into the 50F range, which would be too cold I think.
The fermentations of the cyzer (and of the orange creamsicle I also have in the chamber) and going well, however, so I'll leave it as is.
This time I went with an all-juice recipe. Since the juice already has preservatives in it, it should inhibit any wild yeast from taking hold.
I made the cyzer just as I would a regular mead, but I used my new juice-only kettle to heat up the nice. It's a different design than the other (the other is better), but it did the job. I added a cup of heated juice to the fermenter along with a 1/2 tsp of Bentonite and shook vigorously. Then I added some more juice and added 1 lb. of the liquefied honey and mixed it well.
The rest was as it normally is, filling up the fermenter with the rest of the reserved juice and adding the adjuncts to it. Gravity readings, temperature readings, and pH were all taken. An airlock was added and then it was placed in the new fermentation chamber.
A converted upright freezer, the fermentation chamber has been laid on its back (the compressor was rotated to remain upright) and a new digital thermostat was added to regulate the temperature. It fluctuates between 19.5C (67.1F) and around 17C (62.6F). I'd like to dial it in a little more to narrow the range, but once the compressor kicks on it drops the temp a certain amount, and if I lowered the upper level it would dip down into the 50F range, which would be too cold I think.
The fermentations of the cyzer (and of the orange creamsicle I also have in the chamber) and going well, however, so I'll leave it as is.
Sunday, September 24, 2017
A Traditional Hydromel
I'm trying my hand at making a lower ABV mead, so I used 2 lbs of honey and will go for a traditional mead with no other flavors.
As per my usual routine, I heated up water in the pot to liquefy the honey and heated up 4 cups of spring water in the kettle. It came out at around 114F, so pour a small amount into a glass bowl I added spring water to it, reducing it to a temp of 104.5F, which is in the range of 104F-109F for the D47 yeast for rehydrating. However, the kettle water temp had dropped, so I heated it again.
Setting the yeast aside, I took a cup of hot water, added it to the fermenter, and added 1/2 tsp of Bentonite and shook thoroughly. I then added the 2 lbs of honey to the fermenter, the rest of the hot water and shook thoroughly. Because I had reheated the water, it seems the must temp was very hot because after adding the 1/2 tsp. of energizer, the 1 tsp of nutrient, and enough reserved water to fill the fermenter, the must temp was still in the high 80s, too hot to pitch the yeast.
It actually took about 2 hours to lower the must temp enough and I was worried the yeast may have been damaged or killed by rehydrating so long without nutrient.
I took a hydrometer reading and it was 1.094, higher than I anticipated because it suggests an ABV of 12.5%, higher than what I really wanted. I'm also guessing the D47 will ferment it dry, so it will need back sweetening. May need to go to 1-1/2 lbs. of honey next time.
The pH reading, though, seemed exceptionally high at around 5.60. I initially added a 1/2 tsp of calcium bicarbonate thinking that would lower the pH, but it actually raised it to about 6.50. Of course, I needed to add acid blend to increase the acidity and lower the pH. It required adding 1-1/2 tsp of acid blend to get it down to around 4.38.
UPDATE 9/24/2017: I had an MEA during the night because I had filled the fermenter too high, and knew it was too high, but hoped against hope it would not do so. Wrong! Also degassed the mead and took readings of temperature, pH, and gravity. Temperature of the mead was around 73F, the pH was 4.11, and the gravity was down to 1.074.
As per my usual routine, I heated up water in the pot to liquefy the honey and heated up 4 cups of spring water in the kettle. It came out at around 114F, so pour a small amount into a glass bowl I added spring water to it, reducing it to a temp of 104.5F, which is in the range of 104F-109F for the D47 yeast for rehydrating. However, the kettle water temp had dropped, so I heated it again.
Setting the yeast aside, I took a cup of hot water, added it to the fermenter, and added 1/2 tsp of Bentonite and shook thoroughly. I then added the 2 lbs of honey to the fermenter, the rest of the hot water and shook thoroughly. Because I had reheated the water, it seems the must temp was very hot because after adding the 1/2 tsp. of energizer, the 1 tsp of nutrient, and enough reserved water to fill the fermenter, the must temp was still in the high 80s, too hot to pitch the yeast.
It actually took about 2 hours to lower the must temp enough and I was worried the yeast may have been damaged or killed by rehydrating so long without nutrient.
I took a hydrometer reading and it was 1.094, higher than I anticipated because it suggests an ABV of 12.5%, higher than what I really wanted. I'm also guessing the D47 will ferment it dry, so it will need back sweetening. May need to go to 1-1/2 lbs. of honey next time.
The pH reading, though, seemed exceptionally high at around 5.60. I initially added a 1/2 tsp of calcium bicarbonate thinking that would lower the pH, but it actually raised it to about 6.50. Of course, I needed to add acid blend to increase the acidity and lower the pH. It required adding 1-1/2 tsp of acid blend to get it down to around 4.38.
UPDATE 9/24/2017: I had an MEA during the night because I had filled the fermenter too high, and knew it was too high, but hoped against hope it would not do so. Wrong! Also degassed the mead and took readings of temperature, pH, and gravity. Temperature of the mead was around 73F, the pH was 4.11, and the gravity was down to 1.074.
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